Pass the Peptide

Posted Tuesday, September 4, 2007 to PROCEDURES > Skin

Posted by The Original Anti-Aging & Cosmetic Surgery Magazine

First came glycolic acid, then anti-oxidants. Now peptides are the "IT" ingredient in a smorgasbord of cosmeceuticals. But what are peptides, how do they work and do they really deliver what cosmetic companies say they will? Kate Berry reports.

Peptides are chains of amino acids, the 'building blocks' of life. Tatiana Kononov, a chemist with Revision Skincare explains: "Peptides are naturally occurring sequences of different amino acids. Just as letters in the alphabet make different words, so different amino acids make different peptides."

Peptides act as "messengers" from the brain to the body, telling nerves and muscles to perform various functions. Scientists are now able to create synthesized peptides in the lab that are able to send "neuromessages" of the creator's choice.

Although the medical community has been using peptides since the 1950's, they have only been developed for cosmetic use in the last couple of years.

Copper peptides and the lipo-peptide, Matrixyl® are both used in cosmeceuticals to stimulate collagen production and promote elasticity. But the undisputed peptide-of-themoment is Acetyl-hexapeptide-3. This peptide was created specifically to relax facial muscles responsible for crow's feet, frown lines and other wrinkles.

"This peptide is claimed by its manufacturers to inhibit the so-called 'SNARE' complex--a core of membrane proteins that mediate the communication of nerves to specific muscles," explains Young Pharmaceuticals' chemist, John Kulesza. "By inhibiting this communication, muscles can be made to 'relax'. If the muscle treated with Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is working a little too hard (such as those between and around the eyes) it can effect a modest reduction in wrinkles caused by that muscle."

Sound familiar? Because of its mild muscle relaxing effect, Acetyl- hexapeptide-3 has been touted as a weaker, less invasive version of Botox®. Some companies (such as the producers of Stri-vectin-D and Relaxaderm) have even used the line, 'Better than Botox®' to market their peptide products. Cosmetics giant Olay positioned their peptide cream, Regnerist® as ready to go head to head with cosmetic surgery, chemical peels and laser. New York based cosmeceutical company, DDF, were cleverly calling their Acetyl hexapeptide-3 product Faux-tox until Botox maker Allergan (Irvine, CA) raised objections. That cream is now called Wrinkle Relax.

Revision Skincare has recently launched a new anti-aging serum called Revox® that uses a particularly large quantity Acetyl-hexapeptide 3. "We position Revox as an enhancer of Botox or an alternative to Botox for people who don't really want to use injectables," says CEO of Revision Skincare, John Muller. "It is a rapidly absorbed, lightweight serum applied after cleansing and toning but before moisturizing. After four weeks of use, you start to see diminishing of fine lines in the crow's feet area, frown lines and naso-labial folds."

Even doctors are cautiously recommending such products, especially as a complementary treatment for Botox®. Encino-based physician, Dr. T. Joseph Raoof recommends using Acetyl-hexapeptide 3 in conjunction with Botox. "The effect of a topical peptide ingredient is not as fast and as effective as the injectable Botulinum Neurotoxin A (Botox®)" he confides. "However I have noticed prolongation of the effects of Botox® when a patient is using topical Acetyl-hexapeptide-3".

"There is some evidence that Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is approximately 1/4000 as potent as Botox," confirms Mr. Kulesza. "Its main benefit may be to enhance or slightly prolong the effects of a Botox treatment."

Mr. Kulesza formulated CEGA Eye Area Relaxing Complex™, which contains the same levels of peptide used in the clinical studies that proved its relaxing effect. It contains the peptide in combination with other ingredients that help improve the appearance of the eye area, such as dark circles, puffiness, dry skin and fine lines.

Ms. Kononov draws this comparison: "You can go to the dentist and get laser whitening or you can get a bleaching kit from the drug store. If you use a reputable home product for two weeks your teeth will get whiter but not necessarily as white as you would have got in the dentist's office."

So it is with Acetyl hexapeptide-3. "Is it better than Botox? This answer is no," says Ms. Kononov. "Will you get a result? Absolutely, but only if you are using an appropriate concentration,."

The greatest benefit of synthesizing peptides in a lab means chemists can be specific about the "message" they want delivered, leaving no room for side effects and contra-indications.

"You can 'tell' the peptide exactly what to do and it won't interfere with anything else," explains Ms. Kononov.

"Another advantage of Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is that it is has far less acute toxicity than Botox, and is unlikely to cause skin irritation or allergic reactions," notes Mr. Kulesza. This makes Acetyl hexapeptide-3 solutions a significantly less risky option than Botox--good news for anyone concerned by their frown lines but hesitant about injecting a toxin into their face.

So is this the miracle ingredient cosmetic companies and consumers alike have been searching for? Most experts are cautiously optimistic. "I'm not sure Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is the new cosmetic drug of choice, but it is very exciting and seems to provide a way to add new performance attributes to products like eye and face treatment products," says Mr. Kulesza.

One thing is certain, as science and skincare work more closely together, peptides will continue to play a starring role in a range of cosmeceuticals along with retinoids, AHAs and anti-oxidants. "Peptides represent a new generation of biosafe treatment ingredients with anti-wrinkle properties," concludes Mr. Muller.

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